Nissan 240SX Performance Modification/4 lug to 5 lug conversion

5 lug hubs allow for a wider wheel selection this is a popular upgrade among 240SX owners with 4 lug hubs. =S13= Front: 2-3hrs

Aftermarket 5 lug hubs are available from GTO/Attain. This makes swapping the front very easy. The hub and bearing are already pressed together, eliminating the need for a hydraulic press. Parts: Aftermarket wheel hubs w/ bearings 5-lug rotor (300zx if converting to larger 4 piston caliper, otherwise redrilled stock rotors or S14 rotors should work) New cotter pin Process:
 * 1) Remove wheel, brake caliper, and rotor.
 * 2) Remove the dust cover, cotter pin, and the nut cover from the hub.
 * 3) Before removing the hub nut, make sure that the threads are clean and free from debris. The nut is torqued down tight, if an impact gun is not available, you can brace the hub assembly between the lug studs with any suitable item, you will not need the studs, as there are new ones already pressed into the new hub.
 * 4) Now is a good time to clean off any rust and to remove the dust shield if you are planning on using 300ZX brakes.
 * 5) Assemble in reverse order. Torque the hub nut to 75-85 ft-lbs and replace the cotter pin.

Rear: 3-5hrs The rear requires a bit more work than the front and more time should be allowed to accomplish. Parts: S14 rear wheel bearing with flange S14 5-lug rear wheel hub (make sure to get the 5-lug hub, not all S14's have 5-lug hubs) S14 5-lug rear rotor New cotter pin Process:
 * 1) Remove wheel, brake caliper, brake rotor.
 * 2) There are 4 bolts on the back side of the hub that have to be removed to get the wheel bearing separated from the axle housing. All four can be removed without removing the axle housing, just turn the hub to gain access.
 * 3) Remove the cotter pin, nut cap, and wheel bearing lock nut.
 * 4) If you are lucky you will be able to remove the wheel bearing and hub assembly. Chances are though that the wheel bearing is seated very well inside the axle housing. If this is the case, the axle housing will have to be removed.
 * 5) The suspension links need to be disconnected, this includes the damper, lower control arm, upper control arm, and the traction rod. When disconnecting the lower control arm use a ball joint separator ( not the pickle fork type) and carefully separate this joint. If the rubber boot is damaged, the ball joint will need to be replaced.
 * 6) Remove the axle from the axle housing. It is a good idea to protect the threads and the boots of the drive shaft with a cloth. Separate the drive shaft from the axle housing by tapping on the axle end with a rubber or copper mallet (never hardened steel).
 * 7) With the axle housing removed, you should be able to tap out the bearing from the back side with a rubber mallet. Be careful not to score the machined surface of the axle housing.
 * 8) *This step can be accomplished before hand* Take your new hub and bearing to a local machine or auto shop (or a good friend with a hydraulic press) and have the two pressed together.
 * 9) Clean the axle housing of all rust. Now might also be a good time to install new bushings, as it is almost all apart anyway.
 * 10) * An alternate rear hub removal solution for those stubborn hubs is to...
 * 11) ** remove the four bolts on the back of the hub axle housing.
 * 12) ** remove axle nut and washer.
 * 13) ** unbolt the control arms from the rear suspension housing with the exception of the lower control arm...leave it bolted to the housing.
 * 14) ** unbolt the rear shock from the housing.
 * 15) ** lean the housing forward and remove the axle spindle from the hub.
 * 16) ** at this point you should have the hub still pressed into the housing and the housing still bolted to the lower control arm.
 * 17) ** lean the housing forward towards you, careful not to put too much stress on the ball joint.
 * 18) ** get a large hammer (BFH) and distribute several well placed blows on the back of the hub while holding the housing with your other hand.
 * 19) ** the hub should simply pop out.
 * 20) ** Warning, it is possible to ruin the hub you're trying to remove with this method. The hub will come out but could be unusable afterwards.  Since you are replacing it anyway who cares, it's only a 4 lug hub
 * 21) ** Continue steps 10 and beyond.
 * 22) The new hub and bearing assembly should slide nicely into the axle housing, if it does not, you can "clean up" the axle housing with some fine emery cloth.
 * 23) Torque the 4 bolts that connect the hub assembly to the axle housing to 58-72 ft-lb.
 * 24) Re-install the axle housing, don't forget to re-install the axle in the housing, taking care to protect the threads.
 * 25) Torque values for the suspension components are: RUCA- 57-72 ft-lb, RLCA- 52-64 ft-lb, traction rod- 57-72 ft-lb, Damper- 65-80ft-lb. All final torque values should be accomplished with the vehicle on the ground. (Good luck)
 * 26) Install the wheel bearing lock nut and bearing, torque to 152-203 ft-lb, install nut cap and new cotter pin.
 * 27) Install new brake rotor.
 * 28) It is a good idea to check the wheel bearing axial end play. It should be less than .05mm or .0020in

=S14=